Discovering the Highlands: 3 Weeks Backpacking in Scotland

Set off on an adventure, backpacking, to discover the wild and majestic landscapes of Scotland.

For three weeks in June 2024, I had the incredible opportunity to discover Scotland backpacking. Today I'd like to take you with me on a journey through the magnificent landscapes of the Highlands, the peaceful lochs nestling in natural settings and places steeped in history. In this article, you'll find practical advice & recommendations along with my own account of my experience and my feelings to help you organise your backpacking adventure in Scotland. You'll also find maps, guides and links to various websites to help you compile all the information you need for your trip.

Table of contents :

1. Discover Scotland: a country of sublime natural landscapes

2. Tips for a successful trip to Scotland

2.1. The best time to travel to Scotland and avoid the midges

2.2. Preparing the backpack

2.3. Accommodation : Campsites, Youth Hostels and Bothies

2.4. Transport: Buses, Trains and Ferries

2.5. Food and gas supplies

3. My Scottish Adventure Story

4. My impressions of my trip to Scotland

5. La carte des lieux, routes en Ecosse

Le Polarsteps de mon voyage dans les Highlands :

1. Discover Scotland: a country of sublime natural landscapes

Scotland, in the north of the United Kingdom, is famous for its varied and spectacular landscapes. There are majestic mountains, mysterious lochs, historic castles and wild islands. Among the must-sees are Glasgow, a vibrant and cultural city; Fort William, gateway to the Highlands and starting point for the ascent of Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK; the Isle of Skye, famous for its breathtaking scenery; and Inverness, the capital of the Highlands. Nature lovers won't want to miss the Cairngorms National Park, a vast expanse of mountains and forests. Finally, for those seeking isolation and tranquillity, the Hebridean islands offer deserted beaches, rugged cliffs and abundant wildlife.

2. Tips for a successful trip to Scotland

To make the most of your adventure in Scotland, it's essential to prepare your trip well. Here are a few practical tips to make your stay a success.

2.1. The best time to travel to Scotland and avoid the midges

The best time to travel in Scotland is from May to September, when the climate is milder and the days longer. However, in summer, you mustn't forget the infamous ‘midges’, those tiny, barely visible biting insects that can completely spoil your experience. You'll find them especially near lochs and in wooded areas. To avoid these mosquitoes, I recommend that you leave in May, early June or September, when their presence is less marked. You should also remember to take suitable repellents such as Smidge, wear long clothing and choose accommodation that is high up in the mountains, away from marshy areas and exposed to the wind. You can find the Midge forecast map here.

2.2. Preparing the backpack

One of the most important aspects of organising a roaming trip in Scotland is preparing your rucksack. That's why I've listed here, in the form of a table, the key elements that I think you shouldn't forget for your itinerary. Of course, this is a personal list that cannot be adapted for you down to the last word. You need to make it your own by questioning your own needs.

Hike	Bivouac	Clothes	Meals
Backpack	tente	Choker	salt, spices
raincover	mattress	merino breathable tee shirts	small bottle oil
hiking shoes	sleeping bag	pants/short + jean	herbal teas
harvey map	headlamp	Boxer x3	Breakfast
sun cream	pot	Socks x2	chocolate muesli
sunglasses	stove	odlo tee shirt	cereal cakes
spectacle case	lighter	odlo shorts	Lunch / Picnic
(camera)	knife	fleece/warm polar jacket x2	salads, tabbouleh
Passports/Boarding Pass	cutlery	Kway top	sardines, tuna
Mobile Phone	clothes pegs	Kway Pants	tomatoes
phone charger/adapter	string	cap	fruits
external battery	Toilet paper	sandals/tongs	Dinner
books	water bottle x2 Litres	swimwear	freeze-dried food
notebook / pen	Padlock	toiletries kit	starch (pasta, rice, wheat...)
Waterproof pouch	gas (purchase on arrival)	All-purpose soap	ham, dry sausage
Wired headphones		thin towel	vegetables, fruits
first-aid kit		moisturising cream	cheese
Survival blanket		toothbrush / toothpaste	Bags / liquids / dishes
Voltarene		comb	refuse bags
		Smidge repellent	aluminium foil
		Midges cap nets	small freezer bag
		Tick remover / tweezers	washing-up liquid
			sponge
			tea towels

2.3. Accommodation : Campsites, Youth Hostels and Bothies

Scotland offers a wide range of accommodation suitable for backpackers. Here is a non-exhaustive list of accommodation options:

• Campsites : Ideal for getting close to nature, campsites in Scotland often offer pitches with spectacular views. You don't necessarily need to book in advance; you'll easily find a patch of grass to pitch your tent. Map of campsites listed by VisitScotland

• Youth Hostels : The Hostelling Scotland network offers comfortable, budget hostels in key locations around the country. For around £25, you get a bed in a dormitory and breakfast included. It's a great way to meet other people, especially if you're travelling solo. It's a good idea to book in advance, though, as some hostels have a limited number of places. I stayed in various Hostelling Scotland Youth Hostels in Oban, Inverness, Glenmore and Stirling (more details in my story).

• Bothies : These rudimentary shelters are scattered throughout the Highlands and Islands and are freely accessible. They offer basic shelter for walkers but have no facilities - so bring everything you need, including drinking water. I was able to sleep in the Lookout Bothy on the Isle of Skye with breathtaking views of the sea and cliffs. Map of Bothies in Scotland

2.4. Transport: Buses, Trains and Ferries

Getting around Scotland without a car is entirely possible thanks to a well-developed public transport network. I've never had any problems getting from A to B.

• Bus : Scottish Citylink and Megabus buses connect major cities and tourist areas. This is an affordable option for long journeys from Glasgow to Fort William, for example. For shorter journeys, StageCoach buses provide links between villages and within towns.

• Trains : ScotRail trains provide direct links between major cities. Scotrail also offers scenic routes through the Highlands, ideal for enjoying the countryside without driving. The West Highland Line, for example, is one of the most beautiful railway lines in the world.

• Ferries : To reach the islands, the Caledonian MacBrayne ferries are a must. Crossings are frequent, but it's best to book in advance, especially in summer.

2.5. Food and gas supplies

When travelling in Scotland, it is important to plan your supplies, especially if you are travelling to remote areas such as the Hebrides:

• Food : There are supermarkets and grocery shops in the larger towns and some villages, but fewer in remote areas. Make sure you have enough provisions for several days if you are going to places where there are few shops.

• Campsite Gas : You'll find gas refills in camping equipment shops or supermarkets in larger towns. Be sure to stock up before venturing into remote areas. Outdoor shops can be found in Glasgow, Fort William, Inverness and Portree on the Isle of Skye.

3. My Scottish Adventure Story

I spent the first two weeks of this backpacking trip with my father between the sea and the mountains, exploring Scotland's mytic and most remote places. After these two busy weeks, I continued the adventure alone for the last week of my trip, crossing breathtaking landscapes.

Day 1: Geneva to Edinburgh then Glasgow

Our adventure began with a bus from Chambéry to Geneva and then a direct flight from Geneva to Edinburgh. The outbound flight to Edinburgh was delayed by 4 hours (I won't name the airline, although you can guess which one it was), so we had to take a late evening bus to Glasgow, where we had booked our hostel in advance. Arriving in Glasgow at the stroke of 10.30pm, we grabbed a bite to eat at MacDonald's, one of the few places still open at that hour. We stayed in the Glasgow Charing Cross - Safestay youth hostel.

Day 2: Glasgow to Fort William and Overnight at Glen Nevis

The next day we caught a bus to Fort William, the gateway to the Highlands. After a quick refuelling with gas and food, we took another bus to Glen Nevis, where we spent two nights in a campsite, surrounded by the majestic mountains below Ben Nevis. Campsite - Glen Nevis Holidays (glen-nevis.co.uk).

Day 3: Climb Ben Nevis

On the third day, we set off to climb Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK. It was a demanding climb, with 1500 m of ascent, but the spectacular views from the summit more than rewarded our efforts. An unforgettable moment, despite a strong cold wind and clouds that covered the summit on our arrival but dissipated shortly afterwards leaving a spectacular landscape with a clear 360° view. We descended via Lochan Meall An T-suidhe to spend a second night at the Glen Nevis campsite.

Day 4: Fort William to Oban

We then headed for Oban by bus on the West Coast Motors line along the shore of Loch Linnhe. Oban is a charming port town on the west coast of Scotland. We explored the harbour, visited the town and the McCaig Tower with its stunning views over Oban, and enjoyed a delicious seafood lunch. Unfortunately for us, we didn't visit the local whisky distillery, which was closed that day. We spent the night at the Oban Youth Hostel.

Day 5: Ferry to Barra Island and camping at Borve

On the fifth day, we boarded a ferry bound for Castlebay, on the island of Barra. After a five-hour crossing in the Sea of the Hebrides (a small, partially sheltered section of the North Atlantic Ocean), we hitchhiked with some people we'd met on the boat to the campsite at Borve. We pitched our tent facing the shore with a breathtaking view of the sea.

Day 6: Hebridean Way Trail and Kilbride Campsite

We began our exploration of the Hebrides by following the Hebridean Way trail up from Barra to Ardmhòr. After a ferry to Eriskay, we took a bus to Kilbride campsite on the island of South Uist, a peaceful spot surrounded by dunes and beaches.

Day 7: Crossing from South Uist to North Uist

We continued our journey along the Hebridean Way, exploring the wild landscapes of South and North Uist. At the end of the day, we took a bus to Balranald, where we set up camp for the night in a campsite in the heart of a nature reserve for birds.

Day 8: Berneray to Harris

After crossing Berneray, we took a ferry to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris. Here we hitchhiked to Horgabost Bay, an exceptional camping site with white sandy beaches and turquoise waters.

Day 9: Isle of Skye

On the ninth day, we took a ferry from Tarbet to the Isle of Skye and the town of Uig. The crossing took just under 2 hours on calm seas, which allowed me to enjoy the view over the castle bridge. On arrival in Uig, we stocked up on food and spent the night in a campsite near the port.

Day 10: Uig to Duntulm, Overnight at Lockouth Bothy

This day we took a bus from Uig to Duntulm, a picturesque little village on the northern tip of the Isle of Skye. From there, we walked to Lockouth Bothy, a rustic shelter perched on top of a cliff, offering a breathtaking view of the sea where we spent the night. The panorama was breathtaking, with the waves crashing against the rocks below, a wild and breathtaking setting. It was also the starting point for the famous Skye Trail.

Day 11: Start of Skye Trail - Duntulm to Trotternish Ridge via Quiraing

We began our journey on the Skye Trail, with the first leg taking us from Duntulm to Trotternish Ridge. On the way we passed through Quiraing, one of Skye's most iconic sites, known for its spectacular rock formations and supernatural scenery. The Quiraing, with its sheer cliffs and panoramic views over the sea and valleys, offered us one of the most beautiful panoramas of our trip. After this memorable crossing, we continued on to Trotternish Ridge, where we set up camp in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by mountains and with magnificent views of the east and west coasts of the island.

Day 12: Trotternish Ridge to Portree via the Old Man of Storr

Continuing on the Skye Trail, we left Trotternish Ridge and headed towards Portree, the capital of the Isle of Skye. On the way, we passed the iconic Old Man of Storr, an impressive rock formation and one of Scotland's most photographed landscapes. The views along the way were spectacular, with sheer cliffs, craggy peaks and panoramic sea views. Arriving in Portree, we took the opportunity to refuel with food and gas after several days in the wilderness, while preparing for the next stages of our Skye Trail walk.

Day 13: Portree to Camasunary Bay

We continued our adventure on the Skye Trail, leaving Portree and heading towards Camasunary Bay. This stage took us through a variety of landscapes, with towering mountains and spectacular coastal views. Arriving in Camasunary, we spent the night in the bothy, a simple but comfortable shelter in a peaceful and secluded natural setting. In the evening, we enjoyed the tranquillity of the place, surrounded by the sea and the mountains, a perfect moment to rest and recharge our batteries.

Day 14: Camasunary to Suisnish and Creag an Daraich

The next day, we headed back along the coast of Loch Eishort towards Suisnish and Creag an Daraich. This day's walk took us through even wilder landscapes, with impressive cliffs overlooking the sea. We set up our bivouac on a cliff, with a direct view of the waves breaking below. It was a moment of pure relaxation and meditation, lulled by the soothing sound of the ocean and the raw beauty of the surrounding nature.

Day 15: Last Day on the Skye Trail - Creag an Daraich to Broadford

For our final leg of the Skye Trail, we walked from Creag an Daraich to Broadford, passing the magnificent waterfalls of ‘Allt na Peighinn’. This last stage once again offered us breathtaking scenery. On arriving in Broadford, we took time to refuel and enjoy a good meal in town. For our last evening together, we stayed at the Broadford Backpacker Hostel. It was a moment both of celebration for our trip together and of preparation for what was to come, as this was where our paths diverged: I was preparing to continue on my own for my last week in Scotland.

Day 16: Separation in Invergarry and Discovering Inverness

After leaving Broadford Youth Hostel, we headed to the bus stop to start our day. Together we caught a bus to Invergarry, where we finally parted ways. My father continued on to Edinburgh to catch his plane, while I got off the bus to catch another one to Inverness, where I arrived in the late morning.

My first stop was the tourist office to gather information about my next two days in the city. I then spent the rest of the day walking along the River Ness, passing by Ness Island, before stopping at the Botanical Gardens to enjoy my picnic lunch. I continued my walk on the other bank to the city centre, where I wandered past the cathedral, the castle and visited the Victorian market. I took the opportunity to do a bit of shopping for the next few days, then headed for the Inverness Youth Hostel, my accommodation for the next two nights. Unfortunately, something unexpected happened on the way: I accidentally broke my phone, which meant I'd have to manage without it for the rest of my stay.

Day 17: Discovering Culloden and Loch Ness

After a good night's rest at the youth hostel, I followed the recommendations of the tourist office and went to the bus station to visit the Culloden battlefield. There I was able to learn more about Scottish history and the battles between Protestants and Catholics for the throne, thanks to a captivating guided tour. After exploring the museum and the battlefield, I took the bus back to the other side of Inverness, towards Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. I had a picnic while admiring the famous lake and visited the Loch Ness Museum, which tells the story of the legend of the monster. I then walked to the ruins of Urquhart Castle before returning to Inverness for another night at the youth hostel.

Day 18: Off to Aviemore and the Cairngorms National Park

The next day, it was already time to leave Inverness. I took a bus to Aviemore, the gateway to the Cairngorms National Park, a journey that took just under an hour. Once in Aviemore, I stopped at the tourist office for more information before catching another bus to Glenmore, situated at a higher altitude near Loch Morlich. I would be staying at the Glenmore Lodge Youth Hostel for the next two nights.

After settling in, I took advantage of the day to walk around Loch Morlich and enjoy the beautiful scenery. There I met a French girl with whom I shared a glass of cider in a bar offering a magnificent view of the loch. Back at the hostel, I met a young Austrian with whom I exchanged travel anecdotes, as well as an Australian couple who had come to discover Scotland.

Day 19: Hike to Meall a' Bhuachaille and Kayak on Loch Morlich

After a good breakfast at the hostel, I decided to set off on a hike to the summit of Meall a' Bhuachaille, via the bothy of Ryvoan. The climb was demanding but the views from the summit were well worth the effort. I made my way back down to Loch Morlich through Glenmore Forest Park. In the late afternoon, I extended my day by hiring a kayak to paddle on the loch and enjoy the colours of dusk. Back at the youth hostel, I spent another quiet night.

Day 20: Final steps in Stirling marking the end of my journey

After my two nights at Glenmore in the Cairngorms Park, I hit the road for the final leg of my journey. I took a bus to Stirling, with a change in Perth. The journey, which took just over three hours, gave me one last glimpse of the magnificent Scottish landscape. Once in Stirling, I explored the old prisons and strolled through the streets of the old town. I spent my last evening in Stirling Youth Hostel, bringing my solo Scottish adventure to a close.

Day 21: Return to France

The next day, it was already time to say goodbye to Scotland. I made my way to Stirling bus station to catch a bus to Edinburgh airport, then a plane to Geneva, where my family were waiting for me to return to Chambéry. This trip to Scotland, rich in discoveries and encounters, will remain engraved in my memory as a unique and inspiring adventure, marking the end of this unforgettable journey.

4. My impressions of my trip to Scotland

I really loved this trip to Scotland and I learnt so much from it. The scenery is simply magnificent, and I really appreciated the mentality and kindness of the people I met along the way. Whenever I needed help, I never hesitated to ask, and I always received a warm welcome.

One of my favourite places was Glenmore and Loch Morlich. This lake, with its soothing scenery and unique atmosphere, is the perfect place to relax and recharge your batteries. I particularly enjoyed kayaking on the lake, paddling gently while admiring the reflections of the mountains in the water. The tranquillity and beauty of the place was a real haven of peace, perfect for moments of contemplation and relaxation.

I'll definitely be going back to Scotland! Why not spend a summer there to discover even more of this incredible country?

5. The map of places and routes in Scotland

My Polarsteps journey through the Highlands